Everest 2012: First Summits of the Season!

Now that the weather has fallen into line, the Everest season is going according to plan and this morning we had our first successful summits of the season. As predicted throughout last week, the winds have quieted down and it looks like the current weather window will remain open through the weekend. But things look dicey after that, and so there has been a bit of a rush up the mountain as the climbers get into position to summit over the next few days. Traffic jams are now expected.

This morning the very experienced and strong Chilean team was the first to top out, and Alan Arnette is reporting that 10 members of that squad reached the summit. Climbing from the South Side, the team scrambled up the Balcony with the fixed lines already in place, but above that they went without the benefit of those ropes already being set down.

The Chileans were moving a bit ahead of the Sherpas, who followed not long after, setting the ropes all the way to the summit. Alan says that 10 Sherpas also reached the summit while finishing the task of fixing the lines. With that important work out of the way, the commercial teams are now free to follow.

Also of note, Alan is reporting that Ueli Steck may also have topped out this morning without the use of supplemental oxygen. Ueli hasn’t confirmed this yet on his website, but he was planning on leaving Base Camp yesterday and heading straight up to Camp 4, which would have put him in place for a quick climb up this morning ahead of the crowds that will start tomorrow. This wasn’t the speed attempt that we thought that he might be planning, but still an impressive display of climbing none the less.

Most of the teams like the Peak Freaks and IMG, were in Camp 3 yesterday and will proceed up to Camp 4 today. Once there, they’ll rest and wait one final time, collecting their strength for the long push up to the summit and back down once they’re mission is complete. Tomorrow will certainly be a busy day at the top of the world.

On the North Side they’re still working on fixing the ropes but that work is expected to be wrapped up soon. Teams now have a staggered starting assignment that will begin late tonight and they’ll all be heading up in waves. Among those hoping to top out tomorrow are the Altitude Junkies and the 7 Summits Club, both of which have climbers in Camp 3 now.

There was a bit of a disturbing note earlier that said that there were already traffic jams on thew up the mountain as some of the teams that had been planning on climbing next week have now moved their summits to this weekend instead. Apparently winds are already starting to pick-up on the North Side and the weather window may not last as long as some had hoped. Hopefully those traffic jams are alleviate over the weekend and everyone has quick and safe access to the top.

Keep your fingers crossed that everyone gets up and down the mountain safely over the next few days.



Source: theadventureblog.blogspot.com

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Video: Everest From The North

Over the past few weeks I’ve shared a number of impressive videos of the route up Everest, but they were mostly from the South Side. The video below is an animation, but it does a fantastic job of showing the route up the Northeast Ridge and includes some of the important landmarks/milestones along the way including the position of George Mallory and Sandy Irvine at their last sighting. This is the route that the climbers on the North Side of the mountain will be taking this weekend as they head to the summit.



Source: theadventureblog.blogspot.com

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Outside Profiles Chad Kellogg

We’re all Everest all the time around here today, but it kind of is the epicenter of the adventure world at the moment.

With that in mind, Outside Online has a great profile of speed-climber Chad Kellogg as he prepares for a run at the Everest speed record. The story was written by Grayson Schaffer, who has been stationed in South Side Base Camp all season long and has had the chance to get to know Chad while he is there.

The story takes a look at all the challenges that Kellogg has had to deal with over the past few years, including the loss of numerous loved one, most notably his wife Lara. He’s also dealt with injuries, financial set backs and plenty of other problems, and yet he continues to pursue his passion for climbing all over the world.

At the moment, as the rest of the teams head for the summit, Chad is preparing to have a run at Marc Batard’s 1988 record of 22 hours, 29 minutes from BC to summit and 36 hours for the round trip, all done without oxygen. There has been some rumblings about a fast time, turned in by Kazi Sherpa a decade later, who made it to the summit in 20 hours, 24 minutes, but Outside says that Kazi used oxygen on the descent, so his record is in some dispute.

Either way, reading the article I get the impression that Chad is going to hit the slopes and simply see what he can do. If the record is attainable he’ll go after it, but mostly this is about him continuing to chase his passions in the mountains.

There are some concerns about the current weather window closing early next week. It would be a shame if Kellogg didn’t at least have a go at the record. We’ll just have to wait and see what happens.



Source: theadventureblog.blogspot.com

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Video: Old Man River – Chapter 6

Chapter 6 of the ongoing web series Old Man River is out and it brings yet another intriguing episode for our viewing pleasure. The crew continues its 2400 mile (3862km) journey down the length of the Mississippi River, with conditions getting both better and getting worse this week.

The rains have stopped, which makes for better life on the river and the boat passes St. Louis, which means no more locks and dams. But the Mississippi is now at flood stages, which presents its own brand of issues.

Enjoy!



Source: theadventureblog.blogspot.com

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Video: People Are Awesome

Need a little afternoon inspiration? Than check-out the video below, which features a number of amazing athletes doing some amazing things. You’ll find everything from mountain climbers and paddlers (Looks like Ueli!) to Base Jumpers and skateboarders, amongst numerous others, all pulling off some epic feats. Definitely a fun video that is well worth sharing.

Thanks to Nic and Jeff for passing this along. I caught it sometime back but hadn’t been able to find a version I could embed to share on the blog. Maybe the video will give us some ideas on what to do in June, eh?



Source: theadventureblog.blogspot.com

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Ride To Rio: A 10,000-mile Cycling Adventure

I’m always a sucker for a good long-distance cycling adventure and it seems riders Dom Smith and Andy Robinson are prepping for one of their own. The two men plan to set out in September on a 10,000 mile (16,093km) bike ride from Los Angeles to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Naturally they’ve called their little expedition the Ride To Rio.

Dom and Andy’s journey will take them through 12 countries, including the U.S.; Mexico; Guatemala; Honduras; Nicaragua; Costa Rica; Panama; Colombia; Ecuador; Peru; Bolivia and of course Brazil. They expect it will take roughly six months to complete the ride, which they’ll be filming for a documentary that they’ll make upon their return.

The duo have just launched their new website, which is a great place to learn about their plans, and they’ll be posting updates to Facebook and Twitter in the weeks leading up to their departure and of course on a regular basis while they’re actually on their ride. As of today, they’re still 133 days from departure, but once they get underway, it should be fun to follow along with their adventures.

Oh, and by the way, neither of the guys speaks much Spanish, which should make for some interesting experiences considering that is the primary language in almost all of the countries they’ll be visiting along the way.



Source: theadventureblog.blogspot.com

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Video: The Nomad

My friends over at the Joy Trip Project shared this amazing video yesterday and it is so well done I wanted to pass it along today. The short film features Erik Boomer, who was one-half of the duo that circumnavigated Ellesmere Island last year by kayak and skis. In this video he talks about his constant need to explore new places and the undeniable wanderlust that sends him off to some of the more remote places of the planet. I think this is something that we can all relate to on some level. Enjoy.



Source: theadventureblog.blogspot.com

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Video: Summit Day On Everest

For the past few days you’ve heard me mention that the teams on Everest are gearing up for the summit push. I’ve even said that Friday or Saturday would likely be “Summit Day.” What exactly is it like for the climbers as they head up to the top? This excellent video, courtesy of the Peak Freaks, helps to spell it all out. While watching it, keep in mind that this is what many climbers will be going through over the next few days.



Source: theadventureblog.blogspot.com

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Everest 2012: Summit Dreams At Last!

There has been a decided change in the tone of the dispatches from Everest today as the teams are now have a solid idea of when they’ll be going to the summit. Better yet, most are already on the move and getting into position, for what now looks like a series of summit pushes that will begin this weekend.

Peak Freaks team leader Tim Rippel lays out the plans on the South Side. He reports that his climbers moved up to Camp 2 yesterday and the are likely still there today. The winds remain high but are expected to dissipate in the next few days. If the forecasts hold true, rope fixing to the summit will likely be complete by Thursday, which could pave the way for the first teams to go up as early as Friday. Tim says that the weather reports seem to currently indicate that this will be a wide window, which means there will be plenty of time for all the teams to get their turn on top. He also reported that the trip through the Icefall yesterday was safe and secure, with few problems. That’s good news for those about to follow behind.

Eric Simonson with IMG is reporting nearly the exact same thing. Their squad is taking a rest day in Camp 2 today as well and the Sherpas responsible for opening the route are there prepping for the final steps. The winds should die down tomorrow and the first summits of the season should take place on Thursday when the fixing team reaches the summit. Everyone seems to be in good spirits and are simply waiting for their chance.

Similarly, the Altitude Junkies are reporting in from the North Side and say that their team has all moved to Advanced Base Camp. The report that the fixing teams on that side of the mountain are expecting to top out around the 17th as well, and that the first commercial squads will be hitting the summit by the end of the week too. After spending the day in ABC today, they’ll likely head up to North Col tomorrow and be in position by Friday.

On the West Ridge, things are bit more unsettled. You may recall that there are two teams attempting that route this year, one from Nat Geo and Northface and the other sponsored by Eddie Bauer. Both of those squads are weighing their options at the moment and evaluating the route, which doesn’t appear to be in the best of conditions. Hopefully they’ll still take a crack at it, but it is possible that no one will go up the West Ridge this season.

Finally, Alan Arnette, who continues to have the best coverage of Everest this season bar none, is reporting that a Chilean team on the South Side is moving to climb the mountain before the ropes are fixed to the summit. As you can imagine, that is a dangerous proposition but apparently the team feels that this is a very short weather window and that it may be the only one of the season, so they’re willing to take the risk. Lets hope that they don’t climb if conditions are not right and that they keep everything in perspective.

Good luck to everyone heading up the mountain on either side. The next few days are going to be very interesting to say the least.



Source: theadventureblog.blogspot.com

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Everest 2012: Interview With Ueli Steck From Base Camp

Ueli Steck is one of the more talented and well known climbers in Everest Base Camp this spring and we all know that he is planning something special when he goes to the summit in a few days time. What exactly he has planned has yet to be seen, but all we know he is capable of some astounding things when the conditions are right and he sets his mind to it.

Epic TV had the opportunity to speak directly with Ueli from BC a few days ago and they posted the interview online. You’ll find it in the video below, in which they discuss his plans, how he feels physically, his thoughts on speed climbing Everest and a lot more. It’s a good report directly from the mountain with good insights on what is happening there in the calm before the storm and it gives us some insight into Ueli as well. Great stuff!



Source: theadventureblog.blogspot.com

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